Mountaineering
Watching the sun rise on a cool, crisp morning . . . the crunch of hard snow under your crampons on the approach . . . fluid motion over great pyramids of alpine rock . . . unbeatable vistas from the summit . . . These are just a few of the reasons we climb mountains, and western Canada is home to some of the finest alpineering where you still often have the summit all to yourself. Whether it's a single peak day trip or a multi-day mountainfest, you'll always leave the mountains feeling spiritually energized and at peace.
Instructional Courses
Intro Mountaineering
Mountains are abundant in western Canada and provide fantastic getaways for the adventurous, but hazards do exist. Get off on the right foot with proper instruction from a certified guide. Learn rope, axe & crampon use, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, navigation, safe mountain travel and other necessary skills in this 3 day course that culminates with a peak ascent. Courses run at Kokanee Park based out of the Kokanee, Silver Spray Cabin or Woodbury Cabin.
No experience required but you should have good hiking fitness and be able to carry an overnight pack.
Dates:
July 23-25, 2011 (wait list)
Aug. 27-29, 2011
$575/person (includes ACMG guide, accommodation and all technical gear)
Custom dates available late June to late September. See our Booking page for pricing.
Intro Crevasse Rescue
Whether on skis or foot, glacier travel is a treat that we are privileged to experience in western Canada. Understanding how glaciers work and what to do in the event of a crevasse fall is critical for safe mountain travel. Learn how to rope up for glacier travel, build anchors, and perform victim rescue using a drop loop in this 2 day comprehensive course. Courses run at Kokanee Park based out of the Kokanee, SIlver Spray or Woodbury Cabin.
No experience required but you should have good hiking fitness and be able to carry an overnight pack.
Dates:
July 23 & 24, 2011 (wait list)
Aug. 27 & 28, 2011
$350/person (includes ACMG guide, accommodation and all technical gear)
Custom dates available late June to late September. See our Booking page for pricing.
Guided Outings - Day Trips from Nelson
Esmeralda Peak SW Ridge II 5.6 - Kokanee Provincial Park
An aesthetic ridge with airy positions and great views that can be done as a day trip from Nelson or on a multiday trip from the luxurious Kokanee Lodge. Top out with views of the glacier and descend via the popular "Keyhole" trail.
Trip length: Full day (10-12 hrs. round trip from parking lot)
Season: Late June to late September
1 Person - $400, 2 people - $225 ea.
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Grays Peak SW Ridge III 5.6 - Kokanee Provincial Park
Seen from the town of Nelson, this impressive ridge surmounts great rock gendarmes to the summit and then descends the glaciated North Face to reach the Kokanee - Grays Col. There is a good bit of exposure and one mandatory rappel.
A great day trip from Nelson.
Trip length: Full day (10-12 hrs. round trip from parking lot)
Season: Late June to late September
1 Person - $400, 2 people - $225 ea.
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Grays Peak N Face - Kokanee Provincial Park
Famous for its depiction on the Kokanee beer label, the north face of Grays Peak is a relatively easy mountaineering objective involving snow, ice and rock that offers great views of Kokanee Park. This would be a fantastic trip for a family or group of friends. (1200m vertical gain + 8km round trip)
Trip length: Full day (8-10 hrs. round trip from parking lot)
Season: Late June to late September
1 Person - $400, 2 ppl - $225 ea., 3 ppl - $170 ea., 4 ppl - $140 ea.
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Guided Outings - Multiday Trips
Kokanee Glacier Park - West
Based out of the luxurious Kokanee Lodge or from a tent-based camp beside scenic Kaslo Lake, the west side of the park offers some amazing alpine rock ridges with glacier access to fine routes such as:
Battleship Traverse I 5.4
This is the showpiece feature of the north glacier. The route follows the ridge crest like the great spine of a Stegosaurus. With exposed notches, a great prow dubbed "The Destroyer," a gap guarded by the "Shark's Fin," and airy gendarmes, this climb has it all. Fairly involved, but not difficult climbing. The descent is a hoot with a boot ski down a continuous snow gully that leads quickly back to the moraines. This could be a fun half day by itself or combined with an ascent of the Pyramid or Mt. KitchenerMt. Kitchener W Ridge I 5.3
This is a fun, short climb with great views and a fine position. Mainly 3rd and 4th class with 2 short sections of 5th. The descent is down the glacier to the base of the N ridge to regain snow or scree slopes. This could also be combined with an ascent of the Giant's Kneecap.
Esmeralda Peak SW Ridge II 5.6
An aesthetic ridge with airy positions and great views that can be done as a day trip from Nelson or on a multiday trip from the luxurious Kokanee Lodge. Top out with views of the glacier and descend via the popular "Keyhole" trail.The Pyramid NE Ridge I 5.6
A super fun 3 pitch climb with a short approach and a nice open book corner on the 3rd pitch. Great views of the Battleship and a nice link up to the North Couloir on Mt. Kitchener.
Trip length: 2-5 days
Season: Late June to late September
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Kokanee Glacier Park - East
Two great bases for adventure options exist in the east end of the park.
Silver Spray
The Silver Spray Cabin offers comfortable & scenic accommodation with easy access to spectacular scrambling, mountaineering and multipitch alpine rock options. Ascents of Cabin Peak just behind the cabin are possible via the classic East Ridge (5.4), the NE snow couloir, the main Cabin Wall (rock routes to 5.10-), or the enire peak to peak traverse!
Not far from the abandon Violet Mine you'll find Mt. McQuarrie and the Caribou Glacier on its north flank.
On the other side of the hut from Cabin Peak lies Sunrise Mountain offering snow couloirs and multipitch rock routes up to 5 pitches! Click here to see Silver Spray area objectives.
Woodbury
The Woodbury Cabin sits across from the breath taking Glacier View Peak with its impressive glacier travel and mountaineering options. Several options exist to climb the 3 summits of Glacier View Peak as well as the other peaks of the Sawtooth Ridge to the north.
Moonlight Peak provides a good scramble behind the hut as well as access to the high alpine traverse that leads to the Silver Spray Cabin. Multi pitch rock climbing options also exist near the hut.
Trip length: 2-5 days
Season: Late June to late September
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The Valhallas - Valhalla Provincial Park
Impressive climbing on tremendous gneiss peaks. What's even more impressive is the lack of crowds in this classic West Kootenays alpine Shangri-La.
The south ridge of Gimli Peak is considered one of the classic climbs of Western Canada and is just a taste of what the area has to offer. A base camp in the scenic Mulvey basin allows for additional ascents of Gladsheim, Asgard, Midgard and Nisleheim.
Trip length: 2-5 days
Season: Mid June to late September
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Roger's Pass - Glacier National Park
Roger's Pass is the true birthplace of Canadian mountaineering. As one of North America's 50 Classic Climbs, the NW ridge of Mt. Sir Donald is the obvious prize, but a healthy list of classics make "The Pass" a worthy place to spend a few days.
- Mt. Uto Traverse
- Eagle Peak North Ridge
- Mt. Swanzy North Ridge
- Abbot, Rampart, Dome Traverse
- Swiss Peaks Traverse
- Hermit Traverse
- Mt. Tupper West Ridge
- Mt. Sifton SW Ridge
Trip length: 3-5 days
Season: Mid July to early September
Bugaboos - Bugaboo Provincial Park
Perfect granite spires thrust skyward through great oceans of white glacier. The rock is immaculate and the setting heavenly. This may quite possibly be the ultimate alpine experience. From the comfort of the Kain Hut we make daily assaults on the best the area has to offer.
- West Ridge of Pigeon Spire
- Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire
- NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire (one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America)
- Snowpatch Route on Snowpatch Spire
- Marmolata Traverse
- South Ridge of Brenta Spire
- Crescent Spire & Towers (McTech Arete, Lion's Way, Ears Between)
- Eastpost Spire Traverse
Trip length: 3-5 days
Season: Mid July to early September
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Little Yoho Valley - Yoho National Park
The "Gem of the Rockies." Tucked away behind the great President and Vice President mountains of Emerald Lake, lies the Stanley Mitchell Hut. Access is via the spectacular Takakkaw Falls and the hike out on the Iceline trail hosts some of the most amazing above treeline views anywhere. Peak ascents like MacArthur and the President are relatively easy mountaineering objectives but do require crampons, ice axes and some exposure.
Trip length: 3-4 days.
Season: Early July to mid-September
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Mt. Assiniboine - Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park
Known as the "Matterhorn of the Rockies", this impressive pyramidal peak adorns the pages of every Canadian Rockies calendar and photo album. It is most often accessed from Alberta via helicopter to Assiniboine Lodge and then a rocky ledge system called the "Gmoser Highway" to reach the Hind Hut. The hut which is perfectly positioned for an alpine start on the peak can also be reached entirely by foot from the BC side, thus avoiding helicopter fees and allowing more flexibility with dates. Although an ascent is possible in as few as 3 days, a 4 or 5 day trip is recommended to allow a larger weather window for the summit day. The hut is well situated for lower altitude ascents of Mounts Strom, Sturdee or Magog on the other days or when Assiniboine may not be in condition.
Trip length: 3-5 days
Season: Late July to Early September
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Route Descriptions
Kokanee Glacier Park
Click on the headings below for detailed descriptions
